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I didn't note that it was 14:45 at time of last posting.

Signs in the Highlands are in Gaelic first, English second. Oh right! Fort William also has the only place you can order a Big Mac in Gaelic.

He claims "going commando" comes from Commando training nearby using live ammo and grenades to make them fearless. Many got killed in training, others had... accidents, and would throw away the soiled underwear.

Rhododendron is the kudzu of Scotland.

Some Battle of the Shirts at Loch Lochy ("We ran out of names"), illustrating the Scots fighting their traditional deadliest enemy, the Scots. (My gloss, after Good Omens I think.)

Driving through Highlands, lots of greenhills empty save for road, occasional fence, occasional stone wall. It feels odd to think of it as private land. Someone owns square miles of mossy hills they're not doing anything with. I can kind of image clan children playing, or warriors missing each other from a hill away. I suppose one thing is that I have no experience with green hills, save for an Appalachian road trip with John and maybe Hawaii. Lots of geology time in California or Mexico mountains, or bussing through the Rockies, which all look a lo more dead.

Just been to Eilean Donan castle, old castle rebuilt in the 1920s, supposedly from a dream. Clan MacRae summer home now. Has reconstructed kitchen with fake food and people. Rather well-done fake people, RealDoll could take lessons. No photos allowed though.

I need to ask about the clans. I suspect the romanticism boils away to gangs in kilts, though he won't tell me that. But I'm wondering how much relevance they still have to Highland society; I suspect they're the ones owning all that land.

...Says not relevant and don't own the land, long story we'll build up to over the next two days. I note that The MacRae had £250,000 back in 1928 to let a madman build a castle.

Skye bridge was built in 1995 after a lot of protests, including our driver and Simon & Garfunkle. £8 million planned, £30 actual due to bad weather and protests. Used to be most expensive toll bridge, £45 for a small bus one way, but toll's been scrapped.

In Portridh (Portree) now, in my first B&B. I've got an isolated one-room building of my own. Probably leaks heat; radiator is already on. Driver claimed many of the locals were highly superstitious and wouldn't take payment in magical plastic; it's true my host won't take credit card, though there's plausible mundane reasons for that.

NO CELL. AAAAAHHHHGGGGHHH! I'M CUT OFF FROM THE HIVEPACKGROUP!!!!

Yeah, even in the village center. Guess T-Mobile doesn't do Skye. Someone does, because my host has a working cell.
Feel like I should have gone to the "really good seafood restaurant" but I'm really tired and not wanting surprises, so I'm in for a good burger instead. Though the honey roasted veg soup isn't all that.

Soccer on the pub television. Or football on the telly?

Burger wasn't bad. And oh look, unsecured wireless on the street.

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