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Emergency relaxation hotel isn't that relaxing. Tiny room, and I can hear snoring through the wall. The website claimed on-site laundry but apparently that was a lie. It's got another variation on the weird electric shower control (Triton brand, all of them) but that's fine. Toilet in the quirky minority. About £50 a night. But still, it's somewhere I can just stop for a while. With wi-fi!

Right now I'm in a launderette, as they call them. 10 minute walk away -- in SF I was used to 2 minutes -- and small, 5 small washers and 2 big ones, and 5 dryers. Owner gave me soap out of a bin, then charged £4 for the single load of wash. I'm lucky there was even a machine free. £1 for 15 minutes drying.

It's sunny and raining. You can see the rain clouds above and back, I guess there's a steady win blowing the rain to the sode.

Shopped at a Waitrose supermarket. For the third time, when I asked where something was I was escorted to it. Seems ineffient but necessary, since they don't number the aisles. I wonder if it's a deliberate choice to provide the illusion of service over efficiency.

===

Monday. Haven't done much besides read Robin Hobb, catch up online, and look at travel options. Am at the botanic gardens, despite the light rain earlier. Now it's rather windy rain and I've been exploring the glasshouses more. A sign in Kibble says Japan has rice art, giant pictures made by planting different kinds of rice.

Foreign note: I've seen hardly any water fountains, if any at all. Public toilets, yes, water no.

One thing I've seen frequently are signs warning or exhorting against anti-social behavior, harassing bus drivers, or (in the public libraries) bullying. It's nice that someone cares but potentially alarming that they think it necessary... Mind you, lots of the US could use more prevention of anti-social behavior like loud music or scattering broken glass. Or shooting each other.

For brightness, space, and benches, the Kibble is clearly more popular than the other greenhouses.
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Or I could stay in all day reading. For all my time in bed I'm still tired, and I don't know what the tour will involve, so, take it easy.

I read before I left that British toilets would be underpowered and challenged to flush poop, as has been said of Congress-mandated economy toilets. This appears to have been a slander: pretty much all toilets have been frighteningly overpowered.

I just noticed that Scotland seems to have its own pound notes. Bank of Scotland or Clydesdale Bank, signed by a Glasgow COO. £5 has Arthur Fleming and St. Kilda, 10 has Mary Slessor and map of a tiny part of Africa. Ekoi, Ibibio, Itu. English 20 is QEII and Adam Smith, Scottish is Sir Walter Scott and Forth Bridge.

Currently eating South Indian garlic chili lamb. Very hot. First s. Indian dish with meat I've seen.

Got my first professional haircut in a long time, followed by my first mechanical beard trimming.

Found a coffeehouse open to the heady hour of 10 pm. It belies my statement about toilets, though it's less a matter of low pressure so much as not properly releasing what water it does have. Free wi-fi, but it's not working for either of my computers. Pity, I want to like the place. Their Turkish coffee was rather strong and bitter, but this Arabian rose tea, picked over Arabian mint for novelty, is nice.

Don't know if I'll be posting much on the tour.
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There is soap in my room after all - a dispenser in the *other* bathroom.

I got to the room before 11, but almost everyone was in bed already again. Youth hostel. On a Saturday. O_o I slept decently, in and out. Up pretty late, but not as late as some blond who I think is in bed before I arrive, and gets up around 7, but then appears again and just lies there until I leave. Which was noon, today.

I've spent part of the evenings in the lounge. I'm on my laptop, and so is everyone else. So much for meeting people. Except for an Uruguayan woman in front of me last night, who was looking at physical maps, and I asked about her planning and thus met her. Of course, she'd be off to Edinburgh today.

My navel orange from Spain is not very good.

People's Palace - museum of Glasgow - and attached Winter Palace - another conservatory. Rationing lasted till 1955.
Steamies operating into the 1990's for public handwashing of laundry; residents still have the right to hang laundry in the Green.
Exhibits on the world wars, crime and the death penalty, labour movement, municipal services and planning, women's lives before contraception and divorce.

Nothing much else planned for tonight. Burrell Collection tomorrow perhaps, though I forget why just now. Then Tuesday, Skye!
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Got back to my room a bit after 11pm. Hostel quiet period is 11-7, and everyone else was in bed. Oops! Fortunately for them I didn't have to blast them with the overhead light to get ready in the dark room: my smartphone can double as an expensive flashlight. Sleep wasn't ideal but better than I'd feared; I'll give it another try.

Saturday:
Crossed Kelvingrove Park to find Kelvingrove Museum. There was a statue of Kelvin. I suspect Lord Kelvin the physicist but haven't confirmed this.

I don't much trust my phone-GPS opinions on altitude.

Museum has Glasgow Stories, on sectarianism, violence against women, South Asian immigrants, and James Watt; a small Ancient Egypt room; natural history stuff, Scottish fossils or stuffed animals, Darwin, basic divisions of life; Scottish art, especially the painter John Quinton Pringle, Margaret and Frances MacDonald, Glasgow Boys, Colourists, Glasgow Style; Every Picture Tells A Story with a few examples of what McCloud would call sequemtial art; St. Kilda; arms and armor, but with more explanation and commentary; Scotland's first peoples (Alpine jadeite in Scotland 5000 years ago; crannogs)

Didn't finish that museum before closing time. Figured how to walk to the Botanic Gardens, and found the Kibble Palace still open. Silly name to us, but it's a glasshouse or conservatory, in the old style. Not huge - desert room, carnivorous room, main dome - but that dome is nice. Outer desert plants, inner ferns and bananas, little mazelike path, and amazing echo effect under the cupola. Which reminds me that Host said she could like living in a greenhouse, and I agree. Or at least the idea is cool. (Especially a whole enclosed area in a wintry climate.)

There's a more modern complex of greenhouses, more plants though less spiffy architecture, that or I just don't like dark brown frames. Neat collections though, including a tropical pond. But a papyrus placard attributes pulped paper to the Arabs?! Hello, China? One of the four great inventions thereof?

Now I'm in a Persian restaurant. More nickel and diming: "I'll have this yogurt and cucumber appetizer." "You want bread withthat?" "Um, no?" "You really do." It comes, and is rather strong -- not sure if too salty, sour, or dilly, but it does want to be cut.

Table has a number on it. I've wondered why more restaurants don't use physical labels to cut down on training and cognitive costs of waiters.

Been seeing a lot of redheads. Don't believe all of them are natural, but still. More redheads than blondes? Maybe.

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Buchanan: downtown, Queen St rail. Didn't see much.
Cowcaddens: looks like crap, but shops and nightlife a few blocks south on Sauchladdie.
St. Georges Cross: lots of shops... All closed by 5:30 for fear of vampires. Or maybe of the council high rise looming nearby. Great Western road seems a bit more alive. I'm surprised there's a Cromwell road - but oh, right, I'm in Scotland. Bunch of bars or pubs, and an iCafe.
Kelvinbridge: hostel. River walk, and park.
Hillhead: botanic gardens and galleries, supposedly. What I actually see is a nicy busy street.
Kelvinhall: supposedly where the really big museums are. Mixed vibes upfront, part Sunnydale part restaurants. Partick is a common name in Glasgow - station, taverns - and yes that's Partick, not Patrick. There's a pigeon, a big pile of crumbs, and 3 loaves of bread; the miracle is that there's only one pigeon.

Oh, the platforms are narrow enough to give me vertigo. I'm probably a wuss but there you go... I think I feel safe when I can fall over and not be at risk of falling in; the two-sided platforms lack that trait.

Train had an ad with 2 men checking each other out, urging the reader to get condoms and lube. http://www.makeyourpositionclear.com

London and Edinburgh have more public toilets -- out on the street -- than I'm used to in the US.

Partick: nice station, since it's shared with ScotRail. Outside is vampire country again; even the Subway has its chairs up, at 6:38. Subway has chicken tikka, btw. Bus signs seem to indicate running every 30 minutes. The subway has been pretty frequent -- 4-6 minutes --and runs past 11 - but only 6 on Sunday. There is a large open supermarket nearby though, Morrison's. The bathroom there was bathed in pure blue fluorescent light, with a UV feel to it. Lots of women passing through the station in very high heels and very short and tight dresses. Well, a group of 11 of them, plus a couple more who seemed separate. 3 slick guys to go with the big group. Whoops, add two girls and one guy. The separate group went out; the big one was apparently congregating for the train.

Trains up to 8 minutes.

Gowan: vampires, plus a pub, and an open frozen food store. "Farmfoods: the frozen food specialists". It closes at 8. I'm going to start skipping stations: every station about which the tourist map has had little to say has been depressing.
Cessnock: So much for the tourist map; vampires and Chinese takeout. And other takeout, and liquor and gambling. Lots of vehicle traffic, though. A pub, and a middle-aged woman with male companions asked if I'd had a nice day. I said yes and retreated.
12 minutes to my next Inner train. 2 Outer trains in the past 4 minutes. I am sad and confused.
Bridge street: not Sunnydale dead, but still not exciting. Next target, St. Enoch, seemed likely to be walkable. Cross the river and whee, downtown! A lively one too, with pubs and open fast food places and lots of people. Eventually gave up on looking for a great place and went for Chopstix noodle bar. Cheap (3.50 for a small) and with bathroom. Workers are white behind the register, Asian cooking and elsewhere. Anime art, plus one photo of a Chinese young girl eating noodles. And a collage of Chinese art and cultural facts.

Took St. Enoch back. Nice station. I was going to say something about private schools being in session during the summer, by the uniforms I saw, but I just realized that hey, it's September, schools are probably back in session in general. Like IU is.
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If Edinburgh is so damp, I wonder why I wake up multiple times in the night really dry, when I didn't in London? Something about the bed making me snore more?

Nice easy train - off-peak anytime ticket. Standard class, picked myself a table for convenience and maybe having someone to talk to. No wi-fi or plug. Passed the very base of the castle as we pulled out, that was neat. Someone's playing their headphones too loud... Table is now full, but no inter-stranger conversation.

At Linlithgow, or Gleann Iucha.

1633 says the Iroquois called George Washington "the town burner", for ordering General Sullivan to eradicate their settlements in the Revolution.

Glasgow. Scenery wasn't that dramatic.

There's a Nelson Mandela plaza.
Underground station has angled slidewalks. Underground is the 3rd oldest subway in the world, after London and... Budapest? Hasn't been expanded past its original circle, though due to hard bedrock and old mines.
Made it to the hostel, through Kelvingrove Park... shortest linear distance but the hills are something else. I see why it's a park without roads through it. Hostel is in an isolated terrace, park is shaped like a horseshoe and we're inside the bend. Area looks like it'd be either rather expensive or rather run down. Hostel even has street signs pointing to it.
Hostel is called youth hostel, but there was a no longer middle aged woman asking questions at the desk, so it's not just me.

Some amout of tartan or plaid around, and an Indian waiter in an Indian restaurant is wearing a kilt, albeit dark gray and black. And he just brought me a tiny cup of "homemade Indian chicken soup", gratis I assume. The lunch menu is set price, you choose among starter and entree. There's a pre-theater page, which implies a theater nearby.

In my hostel room. (Wasn't ready earlier.) 8 beds. 2 bathrooms and separate shower rooms. No sockets. One switch for all the ceiling lights and no other lamps. No towel yet. They rent towels for a pound, but don't have any available 1.5 hours after check-in. There *are* two sockets, for 8 people. The room water is apparently not potable. Wi-fi is a pound an hour. Have to buy shower soap... And there's no bathroom soap or hand-drying facility.

Despite the VERY HOT WATER sign and it being a many-room building, the sink has yet to produce hot water at all... I'm told maybe later, when more people are running it. Also that the "no drinking" is because they can't guarantee the pipe water being kept at good temperatures, "should be safe for brushing your teeth but could be a small risk in large quantities", unlike the basement kitchen taps.

Umm, there shouldn't be enough stuff in the water for bacteria to grow on... Still, at least it doesn't seem part of a bottled water scam.

I've met one roommate, here from Aberdeen for a business conference. Man, his business must be cheap.

It's 70 F, which is considered really warm. Mind you, after going substantially uphill in the sun, then up to a 3rd story room, that is kind of warm.

Cleverly forgot Host's spare keys; since I know more guests come tomorrow, mailed them top speed for £7.30.

The plan for the evening: when I first took the subway - one of the smallest in the world, in all senses, cf. Wikipedia - I got an all day pass. (£3.50 vs. £1.20 one way). Might as well use it! There's about 15 stops in a circle, I figure I can get off at each one and look around.

Already I've learned that a stop can be a few blocks from quite busy areas and show no sign. Also that escalators follow London's stand on the right protocol - guess the Tube set the habits for the country. Mind you, you still take the left escalator.
Loud headphones worn by a white man in a business suit.

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