mindstalk: (Default)
My phone confuses me. One time being left on 3G tether drained it, but other times it actually charges.

Getting way more sleep than usual but still tired.

For, uh, brunch I headed straight to Mother's. Not early enough to beat the line. Had jambalaya (yum!), grits (bland) and turnip greens (okay.) Then went to cash in my ticket for the Insectarium, the US's largest insect museum and located in a courthouse. Security wasn't obnoxious, just a bag X-ray and a metal detector. Short version: I liked the museum.

Not a place to go if you're phobic, though. The first hallway has multiple human-sized models of insects on the walls. Freaked out by a grasshopper bigger than you are? Avoid. It also has lots and lots of live insects, in terrariums of course. Also a model kitchen exhibit with LOTS of roaches in it. I've seen one of those before, I want to say in London, but I have no log of it.

Random notes:
I did not see the word 'evolution' once. I did see 'evolved'. 'Adapted' was more common. No reticens about referring to fossils and extinction and hundreds of millions of years.
Mass extinctions apparently tend to pass over insects, at least at the higher taxonomic levels. One order? paleodictyoperans, died in the Permian.
Red swamp crayfish are sometimes blue. Rare in the wild, can be made pretty easily in the lab, but they don't know *why*.
Snail habitats are really diverse. Mountain, desert, rivers, oceans... pretty good for such a slow beast.
Centipedes are fast venomous hunters, millipedes are plant scavengers. The giant centipede they had possessed rather freaky legs.

There's a little session on insect cooking and eating, with a photo in the room of a girl and her cooked tarantulas that I'd swear is from Man Eating Bugs. We're told insects have a good ratio of protein to carbs to fat; land animals and fish aren't known for any carbs. I had some mealworms and crickets.

Union occupation and public works projects cut yellow fever in New Orleans, followed by a quote from a local doctor grudgingly granting that the 'tyrant' had brought marvelous benefits.

Love bugs have acidic bodies; wash them off your car fast.

Black widows are smaller than I thought; I'd also pictured them as tarantula size.
Fireflies bleed a toxin if caught. 3 million Japanese raise beetles; konchu shounen if they're boys.

Star exhibit is a butterfly garden room that's modeled on Asian gardens. It's nice even as an indoor garden, with plants and koi and blue roof with painted clouds, and lots of fearless butterflies, plus some caged Lady Gouldian finches and uncaged zebra finches. I told the guard he has the nicest museum guard job ever, he said they're rotated through in hour shifts. Also that it's not so nice when kids come in and have to be kept from touching the butterflies.

***

I was going to take my chances with the St. Charles streetcar/bus, but an 11 Magazine bus was *right* *there*. I hopped on, and got a ride through the shopping area of the Garden District, and on to the Audubon Zoo, while getting an impromptu tour guide from a drunk woman next to me who'd seemed to invite conversation by calling herself textlexic. Claimed to be a noir crime novel author struggling with her publisher; how New Orleansy. Can you walk across the giant bridge over the river? Hell no, I'm told. No walk, just a shoulder, and long long bridge.

I wasn't actually going to the Zoo at 4pm, but it's in Audubon Park, which I wanted to check out. It's okay. Big, maybe a 15 minute walk back up to St. Charles, but basically a walk/bike trail around a golf course and waterfowl pond. The course had a sign warning "you may be hit on the head by golf balls and die". The pond has a nursery island and a sign saying it was rare to be so close to a nursery, so that might be of interest.

North of the park are Tulane and Loyola Universities, apparently right next to each other. I think I was in Loyola. Architectures combines ornate fanciness with a brickiness that reminds me of Chicago public schools.

This time I caught the streetcar for real, and rode it to its construction imposed limits at Louisiana St., which happens to be the far-from-downtown edge of the official Garden District. Passed lots of nice houses and not many businesses. I'd guess the car has about 44 seats, as long as no one's too fat; seats are shorter than the usual two-seater. Getting off, I soon ran into Fresh Market, sort of an independent Whole Foods type place. There's an actual Whole Foods we passed on Magazine earlier. I have not encountered any normal supermarket chains, though I did find a decent market in the French Quarter the first night, plus various corner stores.

Hmm, according to one my maps, there's a Border's Book Store where Fresh Market was.

St. Charles continued to have nice houses and not much else, Prytania ditto, and I made my way down to Magazine and Washington, and turned toward Canal. I think the businesses were the other way. The bus had passed lots of shops in what I thought was the Garden District but I'm not sure where; I ran into more past Jackson, the near edge. Eventually I went back to St. Charles to catch the streetcar shuttle, which came in more than the 8 minutes it's supposed to; the Magazine bus runs every 30 so it had seemed a poor bet despite the long walk to St. Charles.

Dinner at Mother's again, crawfish etoufee with red beans and rice and potato salad. I prefer the gumbo and jambalaya. The place seems famous for its ham, debris (roast beef bits that fall in gravy) and sausage, so I ordered some sausage to go. This turned out to be several half-links, more than I expected. Figure I'll have a ham and debris po'boy tomorrow.

Again avoiding nightlife due to being tired myself, legs being tired, and my almost never doing nightlife on my own anyway. Still, I've had fun, despite all the ragging on the transit system I've done or could do. There's more museums or (with planning and patience) urban exploration I could do, but I think it's been a good visit; I'll leave kind of wanting more, rather than hating the place.
mindstalk: (CrashMouse)
I'm writing this at 7pm. There may or may not be a further night post.

Got up and out earlier, had seen on Google Maps an interesting food possibility nearby, but scouted the warehouse district first. Julia has art galleries, St. Charles has a streetcar, Poydras is a business street. Between them I'd think there'd be a lot of food possibilities. There were some, but they streets felt deader than felt proper, and there wasn't anything I wanted.

(Side note: it's good for the residents to have lots of variety, like Chinese and Thai and Italian. But I don't go to New Orleans to eat Thai food.)

So I ended up having circled back to the Google place, Mother's, at Poydras and Tchoupitoulas, on which latter street I am staying. The menu looked promising -- lots of Cajun/Creole foods, for decent prices (10-12, vs. 18-22), also lots of people at 12:15. For once I stood in line, and ordered Mae's Filé gumbo, with chicken and andouille sausage, and it was good. So was the bread and butter, the latter served as a slab of soft butter on the plate, not wrapped in tinfoil. I decided I very well might eat all of my meals there.

After that it was a tossup between exploration and museums, but the aquarium here was said to be really good, so I went to the Aquarium of the Americas, buying a combo ticket for the Insectarium, but leaving aside IMAX or the Audubon Zoo. And yes, I'd say it's petty good. Highlights outline: coral reef you walk through/under; Amazon river 'walkthrough' with macaws and canopy-high trees (and skylights, so I didn't miss being outside; penguins (not that unusual, also not present until December due to renovation); sea otters, including one who opens an ice treat by banging it against the window that holds all the water in; bunch of sea horses; Mississippi river walkthrough with a white alligator (leucistic instead of albino) and chained (injured?) red-tail hawk and owl; scaled down but still large oil platform structure with lots of big fish and turtles swimming around it.

I also liked a small exhibit with three spiny lobsters and a moray eel. Active crustaceans are a lot more interesting to watch than fish, as they have more and more relatable behaviors. And spiny lobsters have so many sensory extrusions you get to wonder what will happen when they bump into each other.

A sign noted how weird seahorses are. Head of a horse, tale of monkey, armor of an insect (stretching it), pouch of a marsupial (but on the male!), males give birth, color changing of a chameleon...

Electric eels give themselves cataracts from the shocks they use.

You can touch stingrays (stings removed) at one exhibit. They're slimy.

3/4 of all Louisiana fishing is centered around oil platforms. There was a model of an Atmospheric Diving Suit that can go down to 610 meters without compression or saturation diving.

Odd thing: no octopuses or relatives.

Good old anabeps, the four-eyed fish.

One drawback: fish tanks weren't always well labeled with the fish in them. So you'd see something and continue wondering what it was.

***

I staggered out, my legs falling off, around 4. I thought about a dinner river cruise, 8-10, but it's $40 for the boat and $66 for the boat+dinner. I waited for the Canal streetcar again, then gave up again and walked, hoping a fast walk would feel better than the slow roll you do in a museum. And at 1643 my head swung and saw the words "OBAMA TRIUMPH" on what turned out to be USA Today, so that's how long my ignorance lasted.

Canal Street is full of businesses until somewhat beyond Rampart (border of the French Quarter) but they mostly felt like Shops and uninteresting to me. The street is lined with many tall palm trees, cue that LA feeling again for me. I was pacing a car with loud musing for several blocks, until it got fed up and turned around; traffic away from the river was literally at a walking pace. I thought the streetcar shuttle was running over the tracks, but at some point the tracks were being worked on heavily so it must go into traffic; that would have been fun.

***

So, I'd mentioned overly exposed strip clubs on Bourbon. By that I meant, in one case I could look from the street through the door and see a girl with a bikini bottom half *off* her butt. I've also seen Asian foot massage places which are equally transparent in their way: you can look through the window and see clients getting foot massages, so I assume for once it's an Asian massage place that isn't risque. Both kinds of place could be considered transparent.

On Canal I passed a place saying FOOT MASSAGE and REFLEXOLOGY, which sound above board and clinical, but with the blacked out windows and neon signage of strip clubs. I consider this sending mixed signals. Likewise a nearby VIP Spa, advertising Exercise, Jacuzzi, Steam Bath and Body Rub, likewise with blackout. I guess all of those could be risque, except, Exercise? I did not investigate.

***

At Treme I found the actual streetcars, but Canal was looking boring, and I turned back into the French Quarter, finding Remoulade at Bourbon and Bienville. I had natchitoches meat pies and cheese fries. The stuff was good, the pastry shell was meh, I feel like I should have gone all the way back to Mother's, but ow, my feet. (The legitimate foot massage places are actually tempting.)

***

At full normal non-exploratory pace, only 15 minutes from there to the door of my hotel room, big cut down from Monday's 30 minutes. Going to Frenchman Street -- or coming back -- seems more feasible. One future is I take a nap and do so. Another future is I stay in investigating election results.
mindstalk: (lizqueen)
First, I have to really think about switching to AT&T. T-Mobile's plan is nice, but their signal is very unreliable. I was without for an hour in this hotel room, a new record. Also, 3G tethering apparently uses power faster than USB charging can replace it.

As for today, let me get the negatives out first. I looked up the transit here, NORTA. Canal Street and St. Charles aren't too bad, but odd, swinging between every 7 (St. Charles) or 10 (Canal) to every 30 minutes in frequency, and not in a clear pattern either; there may be every 30 minutes in the evening, then every 20 later. Or, no, I just realized Canal has PM times of 9:46, 10:36, 10:56(!), 00:16... St. Charles is better. Riverside is 20, going to every 40 minutes after 7pm, and stopping after 10 (the other two run past 1 AM, even if not very often.) The driver who took me up around 5pm claimed he ran every 13 minutes, or every 26 after 7 pm; the online schedule calls that a lie. Plus, the final Riverside streetcar stopped at Canal, when I'd wanted to ride it down to Julia St. to get to my hotel.

And this is the good part of the system. The buses run like every 30-70 minutes. And both St. Charles and Canal are under construction work, such that you actually take a shuttle bus along a fair chunk of their route at the moment, before switching to the real streetcar.

If I want to stay for the music on Frenchman street, which doesn't even get started until 9pm, I can count on walking home, or maybe figuring out the schedule of some other bus.

Transit rage!

***

As for my actual day, it started pretty late; I slept 10 hours straight, which I needed, and then found the phone had no charge (see above). Since I really like the backup of having GPS maps when needed, not to mention a camera and note taking device (and my real camera refused to take my rechargeables; not sure if they're read or it is, it's been increasingly prone to claim low charge on even fresh batteries.) So I got out later than ideal. But productive anyway.

Headed for the river, as my INTP brain went "Mississippi! You're near the Mississippi! Go look!" Had brunch breakfast at Grand Isle, which I think the hotel woman may have mentioned last night -- I don't remember the name, but there's an X on my map -- and had gator sausage po' boy (sandwich) and chicken andouille gumbo. Both were really good. Then I reached the actual river -- which isn't all that impressive looking around here, but is fairly big -- and caught the ferry over to Algiers. This is free for pedestrians, maybe a dollar for car? I'm impressed. Runs every half hour, trip itself is 5-10 minutes.

In Algiers I first found myself surrounded by green rises on three sides, and thought "levees". Never been on one before, even in the Netherlands! (Never got to dike country.) Grassy embankment, gravel path on top (paved path elsewhere, I later found.) The excitement wore off quickly, so I went back down among the houses.

THEY ARE SO PRETTY. I don't have the bandwidth to upload photos now, and googling for Algiers Point Houses gives a bit of an idea but is kind of disappointing compared to the physical experience. But they're carved and colored and decorated and it's all really really nice. A guy said the best streets were Olivier and Delaronde, and they are good, but the whole area around there is pretty, really.

A Catholic Church was closed -- surprised it wasn't a voting location -- and surrounded by signs saying "THOU SHALT NOT KILL -- God" I have no idea if the point is against war, crime, or abortion.

Oh, I forgot. There's a courthouse near the landing point, heading off to the left. It looks rather nice too, outside and in. Small, but high ceilinged with chandeliers and leather couches and such. That *was* a voting location. Voter ID laws are in effect, though there's a special ID you can get for free if you don't have a driver's license.

The place is pretty but there's not much neighborhood, so I headed back across on the ferry, walked down a bit to Riverwalk Mall, which is like a block long but has only one entrance (RAGE), then took the streetcar up to Esplanadade, as lyceum had recommended musing on Frechman Street. I went down Decatur first, then up Frenchman, and ended up eating at the Praline Connection. (Pralines in general seem to e a thing around here.) Service staff were all darkly black men in brimmed hats. I went for a seafood combo: catfish, shrimp, oysters, and crab, everything breaded, plus fries and salad. I really liked the catfish. The rest... I guess I'm not a big shellfish person. (Sorry, Mama.) (My mother loved all shellfish.) I give the restaurant props for not having a hideous Flash website -- that's a direct menu link, so you can see they don't say what kind of crab is involved...

As lyceum said, by 9 music was starting up, including a small street band I listened to for a while. I felt like exploring more, so stalked around the French Quarter some more. Bourbon is still the #1 street in activity by far, but others are Decatur and St. Peter, and maybe Toulouse (don't recall) which I came back on to catch the abortive streetcar.

Was tempted to ride the Canal St. shuttle up and back for the sights, but I waited for a while watching the bus not move, so gave up and went home.

***

Princess Bride novel: still good. _Tooth and Claw_ re-read: slow to catch me again, but good experience in the end. Railgun and Sora no Woto final episodes, and the Wedding of River Song: still fun. I did wonder if Railgun could be seen as a shounen format anime with girls.

***

I have managed to avoid any election news so far. I shall continue this and go to bed in blissful ignorance of any possible horrible losses or agonizing re-counts. This has served me well in 2 out of the past 3 elections, after all.

***

At one level I feel cheated that we're having high temps of 20 C, rather than 25 or 28. OTOH, with all the walking I'm doing, it's just as well. That reminds me: you can really see the signs of this in the buildings and plants (duh). It reminds me of parts of LA/Madrid/Santiago, but that's mostly because those are the "warm all year" places I've been in, and LA gets too much irrigation water; this is the first hot/humid place I've been in, apart from Hawaii and Atlanta, which are rather different. I've seen really big "swamp cabbage", what look like banana plants growing randomly but are probably some other plant, still with big leaves, and of course all those porches and balconies. I guess what's distinctive is cast-iron balconies hanging off of multiple stories.
mindstalk: (Default)
Had a long layover in Nashville, and spent some time trying to find the best BBQ in the airport, by asking local employees and looking online. Seemed to come down to Neely's (Memphis style?) and Whitts (Nashville style?) both holes in the wall; no one recommended the sit down tourist places with live country music. I went to Whitts and had decent pulled pork and, hmm, interesting fried okra. From the plane I'd seen a big river and appalling proliferation of suburban cul-de-sacs.

First impressions of New Orleans were off putting at best. Airport food close at 8 or 9; not that I personally cared, but I take it as Indicating Something. The shuttle I'd reserved through Southwest is $19 each way, yet seemed the cheapest option. And it seems to consist of 3 14 seat vans. Took at least half an hour to get us, by which time a half-decent transit system would have me downtown. The driver later was hard to understand, but seemed to be apologizing for speeding on the highway, justifying it by pointing to Saints game traffic we were just squeezing through, and saying a bit later we'd be stuck for 2-3 hours in traffic. If true that's rather appalling for Monday night football. Or would this be some special thing? I don't remember when football season starts. Anyway, it all smacks of a poor city run by corrupt small-government politicians.

But I started seeing pretty interesting architecture. My hotel looks nice, and the front desk woman was pretty friendly and helpful. Big room! I could almost do laps. Though I worry about morning noise from a skylighted garden I overlook. Speaking of which, I like these things, but it seems unnecessary for a subtropical climate. Though I think I saw "sculpture garden" on a sign.

I went walking, first away from the French Quarter, through the Warehouse District. Seems a lot like SoMa in San Francisco; an old, er, warehouse or factory district, that's been arted up a bit, but is still pretty dead. I did see many buildings packed wall to wall, and multi-story... still supporting no street life, in fact seeming unoccupied.

Finally I hit the French Quarter, first down the Canal Street border a bit, then into it. Here's there's life. I ate at Popeye's, sort of Louisiana fast food, which feels lame, but at that point I was getting worried about finding dinner at all. And it's an Experience too, though not one I'll rush to repeat. (Had popcorn shrimp, a piece of chicken, red beans and rice, and cajon fries, plus a biscuit. All meh. And that was the spicy chicken...)

I wandered a fair bit around the southwest French Quarter, and I did find a cheapish 24 hour bar/food place, Deja Vu. (Off Bourbon, not to be confused with some Deja Vu club on Bourbon.) Also found a corner store open to 1am and got some groceries in case of late night munchies. Lots of really amazing antiques in the windows of antique stores. More densely packed though shorter architecture, dominated by porches and elaborate railings.

But, Bourbon Street? Yes it's a cliche tourist street with lots of drunk college students throwing beads down at women. But it's also where most of the life is: people, open businesses, that sort of thing. Restaurants, music clubs, dance clubs, exotic dance/strip clubs (with some amazing, ah, public exposure), more. Of course, it's Monday night, so maybe more of the Quarter will stay up late later in the week. Of course, I leave Friday afternoon, so I may never know.

I seem to be about half an hour from halfway down Bourbon. Good thing I got groceries, not walking that far for a snack.

Plans: none cast yet. But there's possibilities of daytime walking, streetcars[1], a free ferry across the Mississippi, lots of museums, an aqaurium, a park and zoo that'll be a bit involved to get to, one of those touristy hop on/off buses ($40 for a day, but $60 for 3 days, almost tempting, especially if more frequent than the public buses.)

[1] "How frequently do they and the buses run?"
"Really frequently!"
"Yeah?"
"Like, every 15 minutes!"
"Uh."

Profile

mindstalk: (Default)
mindstalk

July 2025

S M T W T F S
  12345
6789101112
13141516171819
20212223242526
272829 3031  

Most Popular Tags

Expand Cut Tags

No cut tags

Syndicate

RSS Atom

Style Credit

Page generated 2025-08-01 16:44
Powered by Dreamwidth Studios